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So I’ve tasted 77 Barbarescos from the 2009 vintage here at the Nebbiolo Prima 2012 tasting, all blind, in two flights yesterday and today, and there’s a reasonably complete picture emerging.
In essence, 2009 is not a great vintage, rather a difficult one with plenty of ordinary or even dire wines and few standouts. I’ve earmarked 17 wines that I recommend for buying, which is not a large number. The reasons?
- drying tannins: in tune with many hot vintages, 2009 appears a little overtannic, a problem that is aggravated by overextraction and wood tannins – many producers still prefer to push rather than pull back;
- highish alcohol: not so much a problem in itself but in context, because of the low fruit, many wines are lifted and aggressive;
- low fruit: indeed the surprising characteristic of 2009 in Barbaresco is the low fruit intensity; wines vary from completely fruitless to soupy and confiturey, but almost nowhere have I found the vibrant intensity of vivid fresh red fruits that characterises Barbaresco at its best;
- hollow in the middle: related to the above issue, maybe half of the samples I tried were showing a big hole in the middle, after a reasonably intense, broad attack and before the tannins kick in on the finish, there is just not enough flesh or textural fruit to get excited about these wines.
I shared these thoughts with a few producers at dinner yesterday and one recurrent answer was that 2009 Barbarescos are too young. Some are (others are on the verge of oxidation and seem already overevolved), but that can be said of any Barbaresco vintage: ideally we should now be drinking the 2004s and 2001s and still hold on the 2005s and 2006s (the latter going through a dumb phase IME). But at the same time in history I enjoyed 2008 and 2007 Barbaresco quite a lot more than these charmless, fruitless 2009s. With hot weather, intense sunlight and hydric stress in many vineyards, it is clear that Nebbiolo suffered and was unable to develop the aromatic complexity and fruity texture it achieves in really good vintages.
I’m now off to taste 2007 Barbaresco Riservas and then to visit some producers; the above slideshow is showing you those 17 13 wines that I liked most.
Disclosure
My trip to Piedmont including flights, accommodation and wine tasting programme is sponsored by the Albeisa association of wine producers.
Damn…that is just the kind of rap that can put people off a complete vintage of Barbaresco. You might like to point out which wines are the exception to the generalizations you have just stated. Not to mention I sell Olek’s wine in the USA.
Sorry Wojciech I’m a little sensitive on this one…especially since you posted the label of his wine..and the first time it has been bottled as a single Cru Barbaresco…ever!
Pacvine…aka Kelly Stockton …Tanaro River Imports
Kelly, thanks for the comment. I thought I made it clear the labels were of wines I actually liked most, but perhaps I should phrase that in a more direct way.
As it stands I don’t think 2008 Barbaresco is a good buy today, especially since so much 08 and 07 is still on the market. And I prefer to state that directly and honestly rather than trying to be diplomatically lukewarm. Hope 2009 develops well
in the bottle. Cheers!
It looks to me that there are only 13 wines in the slideshow…
You’re right, I had earmarked 17 wines but not all were available for photos.
Can you possiby post the name of the last 4 wines?
@Andras: hey 3 missing wines with no photos are:
Terre da Vino Barbaresco La Casa in Collina 2009
Rivetto Barbaresco Cè Vanin 2009
Pertinace Barbaresco Vigneto Nervo 2009
and the 14 ones that are pictured are (in order of tasting):
Adriano Marco e Vittorio Barbaresco Sanadaive 2009
Gemma Barbaresco 2009
Ca’ du Rabajà Barbaresco 2009
Cantina del Pino Barbaresco 2009
Cascina Morassino Barbaresco Morassino 2009
Socrè Barbaresco Roncaglie 2009
Olek Bondonio Barbaresco Roncagliette 2009
Ca’ du Rabajà Barbaresco Rabajà 2009
Negro Angelo e figli Barbaresco Cascinotta 2009
Paitin Barbaresco Sori Paitin 2009
Fontanabianca Barbaresco Bordini 2009
Paitin Barbaresco Serra 2009
Vigin Barbaresco Nonn’Orlando 2009
Luisin Barbaresco Sorì Paolin 2009
Thank you! (No further matches, anyway.)
Did you try the Roeros by any chance / any favourites there?
@András, sorry for the late answer. On the whole I wasn’t thrilled by the 2009 Roeros, tight and ungiving at this stage. My best wines were:
2009 normale:
Fabrizio Battaglino Roero Sergentin
Cascina del Pozzo Roero Roeromontegalletto
Malabaila di Canale Roero Bric Volta
Cascina Chicco Roero Montespinato
2008 Riserva:
Pelassa Daniele Roero Riserva Antaniolo
Monchiero Carbone Roero Riserva Printi
Matteo Correggia Roero Riserva Rocche d’Ampséy