Etna: two fine reds

During my stay on the Etna last summer (read here) I picked up a few bottles to taste at home and get a more complete picture of this very exciting vineyard zone in Sicily. Its superbly mineral red wines provided some welcome refreshment in the scorching summer heat we’re experiencing here in Poland this year. 

The estate of Emanuele Scammacca del Murgo is arguably Etna’s most historical one, going back to the mid-19th century when baron Murgo was one of the renowned bottlers of Etna wine. Consisting now of three independent vine allotments in various zones of the volcano, the Murgo winery has taken a slightly different approach than most of its neighbours, and focuses on the production of inexpensive everyday wines; there’s no prestige cuvée and the most expensive red here, the one I’m drinking, is only 11€. (There is also a trio of very interesting méthode champenoise sparkling wines made of the red Nerello Mascalese grape).

So how’s the Murgo Etna Rosso 2007? It’s a very typical Etna red in colour – which is fairly light –, aroma and flavour. Fresh and zesty with bitter cherry fruit, dried Mediterranean herbs and that unmistakeable sweet Oriental spice signature of Nerello. It’s a red with a real sense of minerality, unoaked, transparent, cool and stoney. With firm tannins and high acidity on the finish, it’s a little challenging at this stage without food, but is well-balanced with a sense of drinkability. Fairly low alcohol. A fairly simple wine, and for a while I regretted the good people from Murgo make no more ‘ambitious’ bottling, but after all it’s a welcome choice: inexpensive, supremely drinkable and with a sense of place, it’s unfair to ask more of this wine.

Speaking of ‘ambition’, it’s surely what characterises my second wine: Passopisciaro 2006. Founded by the notorious Andrea Franchetti whose Tuscan wines from the Tenuta di Trinoro have gathered massive critical attention, it’s a sky-is-the-limit interpretation of Etna red wine. 80- to 100-year-old bush vines on remote terraces on Etna’s northern, mountain-cool, arid slope, minimal yields and state-of-the-art vinification yield a wine of stunning intensity and personality. 

(There are two versions of this label, some saying ‘Passopisciaro’ below the vintage, but I’m told by the estate the wine is exactly the same).

The colour is almost shockingly light and the nose is meaty, spicy, only faintly fruit with plenty of mineral depth. The first sip on palate is just outstanding. Quite round and ripe (it’s 14.5% alc. in this warm vintage, but well-balanced), it is typical of red Etna in being moderate in acidity but beguilingly refreshing and very digest. Balsamic texture and impressive length add to the picture. In that silkiness and puréed fruit richness, this vaguely resembles a Grenache-based wine from the Rhône or Languedoc, and is similarly elegant to a traditional-style Châteauneuf, but has more poise and those crystalline tannins of the Etna.

This wine costs 30€ (it can be picked up e.g. at the Catania airport). While a bit expensive by Sicilian standards, it is definitely worth it; a Burgundy or Châteauneuf of similar stature would set you twice that. Delicious and supremely drinkable, but layered with a real sense of dimension, this is just great wine.

Eger’s quest for self

I’m in Eger to explore the current winemaking scene. This leading Hungarian red wine region is going through a difficult period, as everywhere in Hungary. Exports are stagnant and the home market has seen its buying power shrink considerably because of the financial crunch. The numerous recent takeovers and buyouts add to the mood of uncertainty. 

There’s been wide repercussion in Hungary of my earlier article (after it was translated on leading website A Művelt Alkoholista) in which I criticised the tendency towards superalcoholic blockbusters, and the issue has boomeranged several times in my talks with the producers. I’ve tasted a large number of 15% alc. wines here, and not all were bad (Gróf Buttler’s 2006 Egri Bikavér is actually spectacular) but I can’t help thinking many grapes are just picked too late: one vintner told me he had hoped to pick his Olaszrizling plots on 9th and 10th September 2009 but due to the wine festival in Budapest he had to attend, this was postponed by 6 days. No wonder some barrels topped 15% and still had some residual sugar last week. 

And one producer I don’t wish to name showed us a 2002 Pinot Noir that summed up all the Hungarian disease I addressed in my earlier musings: picked completely botrytised and subjected to cold soak (“they told me in Burgundy it’s how you’re supposed to make Pinot Noir”) that slowed fermentation to several months, it reached 17.2% and over 5g of residual sugar; with vodka-like alcohol and premature oxidation, it’s a complete caricature of a wine (but the producer is very proud of it and predicts a 30-year ageing). 

Fortunately there is a legion of very good wines available in Eger and from the everyday consumer’s point of view, the ‘Hungarian disease’ is not a major issue. Customer satisfaction is increased by the fact that to face a penniless local market, many producers have lowered prices, and it’s now possible to buy a fairly serious oak-aged white or red wine for 1500–1800 forints (5.50–6.50€). Some of the best bargains include the 2008 Napbor white and 2007 Bikavér Áldás red from St. Andrea, the seriously structured 2006 Egri Bikavér from rising star János Bolyki, the 2006 Bertram from Vilmos Thummerer (this Bordeauxesque blend is only 3.30€!), and the 2008 Négykezes red from Tamás Pók. 

 Traditional barrels in the Thummerer cellar.

We also tasted some top-class efforts from the above-mentioned wineries, such as the 2006 Bikavér Merengő (see earlier article here) and a stunningly Burgundian unfiltered 2006 Paptag Pinot Noir from St. Andrea, Tamás Pók’s extremely promising and inexpensive 2008 Pajdos, vibrant, tight, mineral and proudly Central European; a winning 2007 Síkhegy Pinot Noir from Tibor Gál as well as his penetratingly mineral 2008 Kadarka (this traditional grape has at some point almost been abandoned in Eger, but is returning to form, and we tasted a good half-dozen very recommendable wines); and a brilliant series of wines from the controversial Gróf Buttler estate, topped by a world-class 2009 Viognier, a ripe, Mediterranean but beautifully elegant 2007 Nagy-Eged Pinot Noir and the 2003 Phantom, a reserve Syrah of Hermitage-like mineral overtones. 

A biodynamic vineyard of St. Andrea; in the background, the limestoney Nagy-Eged, Eger's true grand cru.

The region faces the stylistic issue of whether to make whites and reds in a more Mediterranean of Central European style; whether the reference should be Viognier and Grenache or rather Chianti and Mâcon. I don’t mind a bit of this stylistic dualism. The former direction seems to have the upper hand at the moment, and the wines of Gróf Buttler, Ferenc Csutorás, Csaba Demeter or the more ambitious white bottlings of Lajos Gál have more than a whiff of the Rhône to them. The rich, broad, puréed black fruits register of the red wines is positively Grenache-like, and white wines with their 14–15% alcohol, low acid and herby aromas resemble Marsanne or Roussanne (and it’s no coincidence Viognier is doing quite well, whether in varietal bottlings or as an ingredient in St. Andrea’s Örökké and Tibi Gál’s Glória). Hot vintages such as 2003, 2006, 2007 and 2009 are surely encouraging this direction, and it would be unfair to say it cannot yield very good wines. 

Yet my impression is that the more distinctive, terroir-driven and ageworthy wines are coming from the other side of the equation. It’s interesting that with no apparent handicap for ripe fruit flavours, St. Andrea’s Pinot Noirs can be 12.5% not 14.5%, and Tibor Gál’s various Pinots can reverberate with the sappy crisp cherry freshness that is almost Beaujolaisian in style. Other wines to look for if you like earthy, savoury, tannic, crisp red wines include those of Tamás Pók and Lajos Gál (the best of which was the Egri Bikavér Pajados 2007). Despite the uncertain economic climate and the sometimes vitriolic fraternal fights between vintners, Eger is surely showing signs of energy and progress. 

Eger is waiting for a new lease of life.

2010 Puttabong Organic Queen

At the moment I am enjoying a few 2010 first flush Darjeelings. It’s the tea that feels most ‘in season’ to me; its fruitiness, juiciness and refreshing citrus tang matching best with the combination of hot and wet days we’re having here in Poland.

Last year I bought Darjeeling tea from online vendors Lochan (see here for reviews) and Thunderboltreview). With these new 2010s I explored the offer of Tea Emporium (see their website and blog).

The one first flush I’m enjoying most is the Puttabong Organic Queen. A well-sorted leaf with a wide variety of colours, this brews a light orange colour and the wet leaf is deliciously healthy and fragrant.

In the cup this is a very typical first flush tea, fresh as a daisy, fantastically juicy, citrusy, grapefruity, with balanced oxidation and an appealingly medium body. This is not an evanescent first flush – in fact there is quite some substance and gravitas, and when brewed competition style with a long steep this can also be slightly (but cleanly) tannic.

These leaves are so fresh you almost want to eat them in a salad.

But the best way to brew this tea in my opinion is a flash brew with just boiled water. Generous dosage and 30 seconds give a lighter colour in the cup, a fruitier, more lifted profile but more emphasis on that inimitable Darjeeling juiciness that’s like biting into a freshly picked golden apple. It’s a fantastic feeling of freshness that is well worth the asking price of $21 / 100g.

 

The Hungarian disease

I spent the last three days in Pannonhalma in northern Hungary to judge at the 11th Pannon Bormustra, the country’s major wine competition. Unlike many competitions in the world, the entries here include Hungary’s very top wines, and it’s a very representative snapshot of the Hungarian production.

This year’s winner is a sweet Tokaj, the Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2003 from Gábor Orosz. An excellent wine from a great vintage, although this year’s edition saw fewer prestigious producers presenting their products (in the past years there have often been 100-pointers such as the 2002 Aszú 6P Lapis from Királyudvar).

Overall it’s also been a positive showing for the red wines, with fewer duds than in the past and some fairly exciting Pinot Noirs and Bikavérs (Bull’s Blood) blends from the regions of Eger and Szekszárd. The Bikavérs compete in a separate contest dedicated to the memory of Tibor Gál, Hungary’s premier winemaker who died tragically in 2005, and the winner was the brilliant 2006 Merengő Egri Bikavér from St. Andrea (my earlier post on this wine is here) who also presented a tremendously exciting 2006 Hangács Pinot Noir that can rival a very good Burgundy premier cru.

But the wines that made the strongest impression on me were the worst ones. Some leading Hungarian vintners submitted stuff that was absolutely undrinkable. Sure, a wine competition is the right place for competition-styled wines but we’ve had at least ten wines that topped 15% alcohol (and a few with 16% on the label), were late harvested and overripe to the point that, with their consequently low acidity, they oxidised within minutes of pouring into the glass, and provided a sipping (not drinking) experience that was closer to a blueberry-flavoured Bacardi Breezer more than anything vinous. 

The hall of shame included several wines from Ferenc Takler in Szekszárd including a peanut-buttery 2007 Syrah Reserve and the notorious 2006 Primarius Merlot: in earlier vintages such the ridiculous 2003 this 16% wine was one of Hungary’s leading blockbusters, but I can’t help thinking it has lost momentum and lacks even the superficially attractive fruitiness it displayed in the past. Another very controversial series came from industrial mogul Krisztián Sauska in Villány; my fellow jurors apparently appreciated some of these hyperoaked and overextractive blends including the 2007 Kopár Merlot, 2007 Siklós ‘7’ and 2007 Villány ‘7’ but taking an opened bottle of the former to my hotel, I found it impossible to finish a glass.

But the worst came from respected producer József Bock in Villány, who used to be a reliable source of classically styled wines including the Royal Cuvée, a balanced and wholesome Bordeaux blend that I much enjoyed until the 2000 vintage. Now Bock has completely changed course and is ready to challenge any Shiraz or Zinfandel on this planet for alcohol and overripe flavours. The artificial fruit liqueur that Bock labels as 2006 Libra might be his highest achievement on this field so far, but I’m sure the best is yet to come.

Speaking to our Hungarian hosts in the afternoons, two interesting things came up. First, apparently someone is still buying those monster wines on the local market; whether this is label drinking or those Budapest drinkers with deep wallets actually enjoy the taste is open to debate, but Messrs. Bock and Takler better hang on to that clientele, as at their insane price levels (most of these cuvées cost north of 40€) they will be impossible to sell anywhere outside Hungary.

The second amazing thing is that nobody seems to see a problem. The idea that Hungary, with its continental climate and a latitude identical to Burgundy, should try to make wines bigger, oakier and sweeter than Colchagua and Barossa apparently finds few skeptics. Sure, there are exaggerated wines everywhere in the world but nowhere are they as cherished as here. There’s something almost psychoanalytic to this complex of inferiority. Hungary has some great terroirs and could produce some of Europe’s most distinctive wines, white and red, but it will take a major change of mentality to achieve this. Judging by what I’ve tasted this week, it’s a very long perspective.

In the Wachau: why genes matter

Spent a day in the Wachau region in Austria with its spectacular scenery of terraced vineyards in the narrow valley of the Danube, and its beautiful Rieslings and Grüner Veltliners. We visited some of the region’s giants: Franz Hirtzberger with his powerful, late-picked, botrytis-affected wines from Spitz; Rudi Pichler with his meticulous, modern, puristic approach and transparent wines (the 2009 Kirchweg Riesling has fantastic punch and dimension, and is one of my wines of the vintage); Knoll with his very classic, long-maturing, alluringly spicy wines from the warmer Loiben vineyards. 

 Franz Hirtzberger Jr. in the spectacular Singerriedel vineyard.

But it was a 2-hour tasting with Toni Bodenstein at the Prager winery that proved the most memorable. Though defining himself as Homo rusticus, Bodenstein has a fantastically thorough approach and one of the deepest knowledge of the vine and terroir that I’ve come across. If you think the geological difference between gneiss, paragneiss and amphibolite have nothing to do with the wine in your glass, taste Prager’s two Rieslings from the Achleiten and Klaus vineyards: basically coming from adjacent parcels on the same hill but on different rock formations, the wines are like night and day, the Klaus an acidic, skinny, inquisitive, stern creature and the Achleiten its solar, open-minded, high-spirited opposite. 

Toni Bodenstein: Wachau’s deepest mind?

The 2009 Rieslings here are impressive but the Grüner Veltliners are simply awesome (especially in the context of other 2009s, often excessively soft and rich). Bodenstein made the wise decision of acquiring many old vineyards when he took up the property: now these 1940s and 1950s plantings are delivering wines of great depth and complexity. It has also encouraged Bodenstein to reappreciate and saveguard the old clones of Grüner Veltliner that can be found in those old vineyards. The Wachstum Bodenstein, from a small parcel in the Achleiten that was replanted in 2003 with selected old cuttings from a variety of sourced in the Wachau and other regions in Austria, is a glowing testimony to the complexity and dimension that is lost when just a few ‘approved’ clones are reproduced by vine nurseries and replanted on a large scale by wineries. And yet this wine is towered by the 2009 Stockkultur Grüner Veltliner: painstakingly farmed at a record 16,000 vines/hectare on high narrow terraces are forgotten old clones going back to 1937, giving amazing complexity with a vibrant vegetal sappiness and spicy reminiscences of the Orient. 

Rudi Pichler (not) posing for a photo.

No relation to the wine in your glass? On the very contrary; the genetic diversity of our grape varieties is a crucial issue for the future of viticulture and winemaking. 

Austrian marvels

I’m in Austria for the VieVinum event, the major tasting opportunity for Austrian wines. VieVinum has a more relaxed feel than similar trade fairs and combined with the near-perfect organisation (if only air conditioning was improved…) this makes for a memorable vinous experience.

The VieVinum takes place in the spectacular interiors of the imperial Hofburg palace.

My tastings this year focus on the 2009 vintage which is looking very promising for the white wines from Riesling and Austria’s signature grape, Grüner Veltliner. A warm, dry vintage, it has actually favoured Riesling a bit more, with some Veltliners crossing the thin line between rich and excessively soft. On the positive side, many of the lighter less expensive Veltliners will provide spectacularly good early drinking.

But in general I have a preference for the Rieslings which are both more aromatic and fresher in taste, with a good balance even at high ripeness. There are some lovely wines from the usual suspects such as Willi Bründlmayer in the Kamptal region (his Heiligenstein Lyra is a masterpiece of harmony and completeness), or Prager and Franz Hirtzberger in Wachau. But I’ve also tracked down some lesser-known estates with great bargains. Franz-Joseph Gritsch from the town of Spitz in the Wachau has a lovely range of Veltliners and Rieslings, and overdelivers also in the Federspiel categories (which will cost you less than 10€). Andreas Lehensteiner from Weissenkirchen has an attractively clean, firm style, and at 14€ his Hinterkirchen Riesling Smaragd is one of the region’s bargains. High up in a remote side valley in Viessling, Josef Gritsch of the Graben Gritsch estate is making some impressively puristic mineral wines including a range of lovely Gelber Muskatellers (it’s rare to see so much minerality in a Muscat), and at 14€ his Setzberg Riesling Smaragd 2009 might well be the best bargain of the fair. 

Josef Gritsch proudly presenting his Riesling.

There were some very good Veltliners, too, especially at the Erste Lage presentation: 2009 is the first vintage for this new category, roughly equivalent to the French grand cru and German Grosses Gewächs (see here for my post on this). Introduced in the regions of Kamptal, Kremstal, Traisental and Wagram by the private vintners’ association Traditionsweingüter Österreich, Erste Lage is a winning idea: the concept is clear (the best vineyard sites are classified and distinguished) and the quality level of the wines is high.  

I’ve tasted through 49 samples and my favourite Veltliners included Salomon’s Lindberg, Petra Unger’s Oberfeld Alte Reben, and Ludwig Ehn’s controversial and bold Titan. But one wine that outshone all others was the Renner Veltliner from Schoss Gobelsburg: after many rich, soft, slightly obese 2009s this is a marvel of crystalline minerality and freshness.

Ever wondered what becomes of opened bottles at wine fairs? …Vinegar!

Patience required

One of the most enticing aspects of the Nebbiolo-centered week that I’ve spent in Alba and Barolo (see previous two posts for details) is the large amount of older vintages that are poured, both at private verticals organised by the various estates and within the official 10-year retrospective that is a traditional ingredient of the Nebbiolo Prima event. 

Barbaresco vineyards seen from the Cascina Luisin winery.

The latter showcased Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero wines from the 2000 vintage. Once the object of considerable hype (it was one of Wine Spectator ‘vintages of the century’ (rated 99/100, FWIW), its star has quickly waned as the vastly superior 2001 as well as 2004 followed. A dry and warm vintage that yielded, rich, soft, opulent wines, 2000 was readily approachable in its early youth and it's no wonder many wines have had a rather short lifespan for Nebbiolo. But I was nonetheless disappointed with the amount of wines that have already faded: 10 years should be the life expectancy of any Barolo and Barbaresco, yet I’ve had more than a couple that were completely over the hill and oxidised, at times tasting more like a 1970 than 2000. In this respect, the vintage has quite clearly behaved less well than the comparably hot and dry 1997 (among the three dozen wines tasted three years ago here in Alba the majority were very good).

Premature ageing seems to be the major problem of the 2000s. Those wines that are still alive are attractively fruity and rich with soft acids and certain elegance. I’ve tasted 46 2000s and while the sample was far from exhaustive – producers presented their wines at their own discretion, and many good ones abstained – but I think quite representative (I did not taste any crus from Serralunga or Monforte in the Barolo DOCG, however). In no particular order, those wines I really liked included Matteo Correggia’s Roero Ròche d'Ampsèj, Michele Taliano’s Barbaresco Ad Altiora, Silvio Grasso’s Barolo Ciabot Manzoni, Mario Gagliasso’s Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata and a great duo of Barolo Riserva from Cavallotto: Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe and Vignolo. Those Barolos and Barbarescos that still have the power to age and improve are few and far between, however: two that really rose above their peers were the Barbaresco Martinenga Camp Gros by Marchesi di Grésy, a Nebbiolo of majestic minerality and acidic structure, and the old-vine Barolo Bussia Riserva by veteran Sergio Barale: fantastic fruit and panache in this blueberry-scented wine (tasted from magnum).

With the pale performance of the 2000s, it was to the private vertical tastings that my attention was diverted, where the bottles on show often spanned three or four decades. At Cascina Luisin, one of my favourite Barbaresco producers (the Rabajà 2000, tasted several times, was ironically one of my wines of 2009), we had a fantastically preserved 1970 that showed a fairly tertiary bouquet but had amazing punch and a full flavour on the palate. At Aurelio Settimo, one of the last Mohicans of the true traditional style of Barolo (see recent post here), we had a look at vintages ending in 9: the 1979 and 1989 were very aged, with caramelly, roasted-meaty, balsamic vinegar bouquets yet still some tannic and acidic punch. But the show was stolen by the 1999 Rocche Riserva, a wine of majestic grace and balsamic richness to the fruit; clearly the best wine made here in recent years.

The most impressive vertical was organised by the house of Cordero di Montezemolo. We tasted the BaroloMonfalletto in no less than nine vintages; a wine that is often unshowy and a little austere in youth but goes on for decades. In contradiction to the former, the 2005 and 2006 were lovely, with succulent fruit and a near-perfect balanced that belies their fairly modernistic vinification. I was a little underwhelmed by the simple and advanced 1988, and the 1970, 1971 and 1977 showed a certain greenness and dilution that I find typical of Barolos from their decade (all three were very good though), but it was all worth enduring to have two sips of the unforgettable 1958, a gran signore of a wine with aristocratic composure and some vivid tannic verve still left to continue for the next decade or so.

I’ll end this post on a sad note, however. For long years one of the best sources for delicious old Barolo was the estate of Giacomo Borgogno. (I reported on their 1947 here). I remember buying the 1961 in 2008 for 105€, and other vintages were priced similarly keenly. What made them even better buys was that each bottled was recorked, refilled and checked for condition, so they are basically guaranteed to be very good. In 2008 the estate was sold by the Boschis family to fine food & wine mogul Oscar Farinetti (also the owner of large Barolo producer Fontanafredda and the Eataly project). A handsome street front shop was added to the Borgogno HQ in Barolo, where the winery’s impressive library of older vintages can be purchased. Well, the 1961 has now been repriced at… 590€. It admittedly was underpriced before but 590€ puts it at the same ridiculous level as 1961 Bordeaux classed growths (which I think have a bit more market following). Let me just add that old Borgogno can still be had at the original prices e.g. at Barolobrunello.com. 

Goodbye barrique

My first day at the Nebbiolo vintage presentation here in Alba was dedicated to Roero (the Nebbiolo grape’s northern outpost, with simpler, most rustic wines, and a few standouts such Monchiero Carbone’s brilliant 2006 Printi Riserva, and the lesser-known Ghiomo wines) and Barbaresco. For Barbaresco, it’s the 2007 vintage that’s on the tasting table. I’m really happy with 2007. Most wines are showing some terrific fruit and very good freshness. They’re also tannic, but less dense or structured than in big vintages such as 2004 or 2006. They might not be for the very long haul but the fruit in many is irresistible. 

 Giuseppino Anfossi of Ghiomo: great guy, lovely wines.

My top wines of the day came from some lesser-known estates (well, that’s the charm of blind tasting) such as Cascina Morassino and Punset (Campo Quadro and Basarin). Tasting 60 to 70 very similar wines blind often distorts your perspective more than non-blind tasting would, but Morassino was top of my list two years ago too, so it’s no coincidence. Marchesi di Grésy and their winemaker Marco Dotta also made some terrific wines: not only the Martinenga 2007 but also the Camp Gros 2004 and 2000 were extremely impressive. 

It’s generally been my best Barbaresco tasting ever here in Alba. Not just because the wines were so good (many were) but also because the winemaking approach is very clearly changing for the better. In the past, many Barbarescos were marred by overambitious vinification, overextraction, dry tannins and an enthusiastic embrace of new oak (which is a notorious disaster with most Nebbiolo-based wines). Five years ago the majority of the new bottlings were dark and inky as Chilean Cabernet. This year, the colours are luminous crimsons and rubies with the typical Nebbiolo wide rims often falling into orange. I’ve taken the below photo from a random sample this morning, and it really shows how the return to tradition is gathering momentum. Gone are the years of creamy vanilla new oak Nebbiolo. These wines are becoming the ridiculous anomaly rather than the norm, as the grape’s natural freshness and bright fruitiness is allowed to speak freely. That’s good!